Yamagata

Yamagata sits in northern Honshu, Japan, with the Sea of Japan to the west and mountains on its other sides. The Mogami River begins in Okitama and crosses a series of inland basins before reaching the coast. Cool harvests and pronounced shifts between day and night help grapes retain organic acidity. Clear days during the growing season are useful, while heavy winter snow means growers must manage humidity and snow in the vineyard. A fruit-tree experiment station helped start grape growing here in the late nineteenth century. Phylloxera badly damaged early vineyards in the 1910s, and Denbei Kamiya introduced Muscat Bailey A and Black Queen growing and winemaking during the 1930s. Around 1980, Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay plantings expanded as vineyard techniques and protection from snow and rain improved. The Yamagata geographical indication covers wines from across the prefecture. Permitted grapes include Chardonnay, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Delaware, Niagara, Koshu and Muscat Bailey A. The wines are often led by the aromas of their grapes and refreshing acidity, with floral and citrus notes in whites and a mild drying grip in reds.