Societa Agricola Podere le Ripi

The story

Ernesto's Brick Cellar

At twenty, Ernesto Illy began designing the Golden Cellar at Podere Le Ripi. Ernesto was Francesco Illy's son and an architect, and he designed a circular, gravity fed cellar built with more than 750,000 hand laid bricks. In a gravity fed cellar, height moves wine between levels, reducing pump transfers during fermentation and ageing. The Golden Cellar is one of the estate's named landmarks, alongside the Bonsai vineyard. Its defining materials are brick, height and a circular plan, all set by the young architect's design.

From the atlas

Societa Agricola Podere le Ripi

A Montalcino estate with biodynamic vineyards in Castelnuovo dell'Abate and Camigliano, making Brunello di Montalcino, Rosso di Montalcino and Sant'Antimo through slow spontaneous fermentation and oak maturation.

At A Glance

The Producer

Podere Le Ripi makes Brunello di Montalcino, Rosso di Montalcino and Sant'Antimo in the Montalcino appellation. Amore e Magia is the estate's red Brunello di Montalcino wine, and Sebastian Nasello leads the estate as winemaker and director. He is also a partner in the venture.

The property covers over 53 hectares, divided among forest, vineyards, olive groves, gardens, orchards and pasture. Six hectares are gardens, and the farm also has an apiary, sheep, goats, ducks and geese.

Place

Vines at opposite ends of an appellation do not ripen under the same conditions. Podere Le Ripi farms in Castelnuovo dell'Abate in the southeast of the Montalcino appellation and in Camigliano in its far west. The estate farms both positions before the grapes reach the cellar.

Soil And Site

Castelnuovo dell'Abate has soils particularly rich in clay and silt, with oceanic origins dating to a time when Montalcino was a literal island surrounded by sea. Camigliano has alluvial clay and sand and a strong influence from the nearby Ombrone River.

Clay and silt retain water more readily than sand, while cooler river influence can slow ripening. Those differences alter vine water supply and ripening speed, which can change body and acidity in red wine.

Story

Francesco Illy set out to develop a piece of land into a sustainable farm and winery. He founded Podere Le Ripi in 1997, planted the first vineyard in 1998 and harvested the first grapes in 2003.

Biodynamic farming treats the vines as part of a wider farm system. Practices began in 2010, and in 2012 the estate obtained Demeter certification across its holdings. Sebastian Nasello joined as winemaker and estate director and became a partner in 2014. Today the estate bottles Brunello di Montalcino, Rosso di Montalcino and Sant'Antimo.

Vineyards And Cellar

The Bonsai vineyard is planted at 62,500 vines per hectare, with vines 40 centimetres apart. At that density, an unusually high number of individual vines occupy one hectare, and close spacing changes how the vines share water and light.

Fermentations are spontaneous, usually in cone shaped Vosges oak vats, and may last months or years. Spontaneous fermentation relies on naturally present yeasts, so the pace can vary. A very long fermentation can deepen colour and bring more texture through longer contact with the grapes.

Oak maturation varies by vintage and allows gradual oxygen exchange, which can soften the wine. When oak time is sufficient, the wine moves to concrete vats to settle before bottling, and suspended solids fall out during this stage.

Wines

The range covers Brunello di Montalcino, Rosso di Montalcino and Sant'Antimo. Sant'Antimo carries a separate appellation name on the label, while Brunello di Montalcino and Rosso di Montalcino carry the Montalcino names. The Rosso and Brunello are energetic red wines.

In The Glass

Rosso and Brunello carry pure ripe fruit. Purity keeps the fruit clear, while ripeness brings fullness. Clay rich ground can support slower ripening and a broader palate, while the cooler western site can make acidity more apparent.

That contrast can leave the fruit broader on one site and fresher on another. The finish can keep the fruit present, with body and acidity setting the final balance.

A Bottle To Understand It

Choose 2020 Amore e Magia Brunello di Montalcino. It is the red Brunello bottling with its vintage and appellation on the label. The estate's cellar sequence uses spontaneous fermentation, usually in cone shaped Vosges oak vats, followed by oak maturation and settling in concrete before bottling. Oak can bring gradual oxygen exchange and spice, while concrete allows the wine to settle before bottling. The label shows the Brunello name and vintage; the cellar work uses oak and concrete.

Anecdote

At twenty, Ernesto Illy began designing the Golden Cellar at Podere Le Ripi. Ernesto was Francesco Illy's son and an architect, and he designed a circular, gravity fed cellar built with more than 750,000 hand laid bricks. In a gravity fed cellar, height moves wine between levels, reducing pump transfers during fermentation and ageing. The Golden Cellar is one of the estate's named landmarks, alongside the Bonsai vineyard. Its defining materials are brick, height and a circular plan, all set by the young architect's design.

Final Word

Podere Le Ripi is a biodynamic Montalcino farm with vineyards set among forest, olive groves, gardens, orchards and pasture. Its cellar produces Brunello di Montalcino, Rosso di Montalcino and Sant'Antimo through spontaneous fermentation, oak maturation and concrete settling.

Sources

• https://www.consorziobrunellodimontalcino.it/en/1531/podere-le-ripi
• https://www.polanerselections.com/producers/le-ripi/
• https://www.podereleripi.com/our-montalcino-wines/amore-e-magia-docg/