From the atlas
San Felice
San Felice is a Chianti Classico winery near Castelnuovo Berardenga, with Sangiovese at the centre and native Tuscan grape research in the range.
At A Glance
| Field | Detail |
| Region | Tuscany, Italy |
| Appellation | Chianti Classico |
| Location | Near Castelnuovo Berardenga |
| Main grape | Sangiovese |
| Named labels | Il Grigio Riserva, Il Grigio Gran Selezione, Poggio Rosso |
| Defining feature | Vitiarium research and collection of native Tuscan grape varieties |
The Producer
Sangiovese occupies most of San Felice's Chianti Classico planting. The winery near Castelnuovo Berardenga is dedicated to Chianti Classico production and produces 800,000 bottles from that estate. Its named labels include Il Grigio Riserva, Il Grigio Gran Selezione and Poggio Rosso.
San Felice also produces wine in Montalcino and Bolgheri. Native Tuscan grape research runs alongside the Chianti Classico work, and Pugnitello is one of the varieties brought back through that research.
Place
Sandy silty soils drain readily beneath San Felice's vines. The site has a Mediterranean climate of mild winters, hot dry summers and sea breezes, conditions that support ripening in red grapes. Sangiovese brings acidity and tannin to dry red wine, so the conditions suit Chianti Classico production centred on the grape.
Story
Allianz Group purchased San Felice in the late 1970s and committed to developing the farm. Francesca Giuggioli now leads the winery as head winemaker, carrying on its tradition of Chianti Classico production after that change in ownership. The named Chianti Classico labels are Il Grigio Riserva, Il Grigio Gran Selezione and Poggio Rosso. San Felice also produces wine in Montalcino and Bolgheri.
Vineyards And Cellar
A Sangiovese planting measure for the Chianti Classico estate covers 150 hectares, with 85 percent planted to the grape. In the 2018 Gran Selezione, Sangiovese comes from I Colti, Pianaccio and Chiesamonti, while the indigenous varieties come from four other named sites.
Fermentation for that Gran Selezione takes place in steel, with 22 days of skin contact at 28 to 30 degrees Celsius. Each variety is vinified separately. The wine matures in equal parts of 60 to 100 hectolitre Slavonian oak casks and French oak vessels of 225 and 500 litres. Separate vinification keeps each grape variety distinct through fermentation, while the oak split brings two ageing vessel types into the same release.
Wines
San Felice's Chianti Classico range is built around Il Grigio Riserva, Il Grigio Gran Selezione and Poggio Rosso. Il Grigio Riserva is the Riserva tier built on Sangiovese. Il Grigio Gran Selezione is a separate category that adds indigenous Tuscan varieties to the grape composition.
Vigorello 2019 is a red blend of 35 percent Pugnitello, 30 percent Merlot, 30 percent Cabernet Sauvignon and 5 percent Petit Verdot. San Felice also produces wine in Montalcino and Bolgheri, extending the range beyond Chianti Classico.
In The Glass
Il Grigio Riserva 2021 smells of wild red berries. On the palate it is lean and firm, with succulent tannins and tangy acidity. Its 100 percent Sangiovese composition supplies the acidity and tannin of the palate.
The Pugnitello blend in Vigorello brings redcurrant, sweet spice and pungent underbrush, with expressive tannins and smooth hints of vanilla. Black cherry, cola, crushed flower, grilled rosemary and cassis add darker fruit and herbal notes, while the finish carries freshness with grippy tannins.
A Bottle To Understand It
Choose Il Grigio Chianti Classico Gran Selezione 2019. It combines 80 percent Sangiovese with 20 percent indigenous Tuscan varieties, including Abrusco, Pugnitello, Malvasia Nera, Ciliegiolo and Mazzese. Its bouquet shows sweet violets and tobacco leaf. On the palate, it is full bodied and velvety, with ripe, succulent tannins integrated with acidity.
The blend places Sangiovese beside the native varieties San Felice recovered through research. It sits between the pure Sangiovese Riserva and Vigorello, where Pugnitello leads the composition.
Anecdote
In 1986, San Felice created the 2.5 hectare Vitiarium to help save forgotten native Tuscan grapes from extinction. For over 30 years, San Felice collected and classified varieties there, and the collection grew to more than 270 grape varieties. The estate also worked with the Universities of Florence and Pisa on research and experimentation that helped rediscover Pugnitello. The recovered grape is part of the wine range through Vigorello.
Final Word
San Felice keeps Chianti Classico at the centre and carries native grape research into Vigorello through Pugnitello. Il Grigio is built on Sangiovese, while Vigorello places the recovered grape in a red blend with Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot.
Sources
- https://www.chianticlassico.com/en/estates/san%2Dfelice/
- https://www.decanter.com/sponsored/san%2Dfelice%2Dopening%2Da%2Dnew%2Dchapter%2Din%2Dtuscany%2D568444/
- https://www.eataly.com/us_en/magazine/producer%2Dstories/san%2Dfelice%2Dwines%2Dtuscany
- https://shop.sanfelice.com/rtw/usd/en/products/il%2Dgrigio%2Dchianti%2Dclassico%2Dgran%2Dselezione%2Ddocg%2D2019%2D750ml.html
- https://admin.sanfelice.com/app/uploads/2023/04/SF%2DIlGrigioCCRisDocg%2D2021%2DEN.pdf
- https://admin.sanfelice.com/app/uploads/2023/04/SF%2DIlGrigioGSDocg%2D2018%2DIT.pdf
- https://www.wine.com/product/san%2Dfelice%2Dvigorello%2D2019/1484237