From the atlas
La Riojana
At A Glance
| |
| Location | Chilecito, Famatina Valley, La Rioja province, Argentina |
| Founded | 1940 |
| Type | Wine cooperative |
| Members | 500 family growers |
| Hectares | approximately 4,125 |
| Winemaker | Dr. Rodolfo Griguol (team of seven) |
| Signature grape | Torrontés |
| Other grapes | Syrah, Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio |
| Altitude | 900 to 1,310 metres |
| Certifications | Fairtrade (2006), Organic |
The Producer
La Riojana farms roughly 1,150 kilometres northwest of Buenos Aires in the Famatina Valley, a high-altitude corridor in La Rioja province that most wine buyers walk past on their way to Mendoza Malbec. The cooperative was founded in 1940, draws grapes from 500 member families across 4,125 hectares, and operates eight bodegas with its primary winery in Chilecito. Seven winemakers work under Dr. Rodolfo Griguol.
The wine-specific claim is unusually concrete: La Riojana is Argentina's largest producer of Torrontés, the country's signature white grape, and the largest certified Fairtrade wine producer in the world. Both facts matter independently. The Torrontés position is about place and variety, the altitude and diurnal swing of the Famatina Valley creating the conditions Torrontés needs to be aromatic without going flat. The Fairtrade position is about scale and commitment: Argentina's first certified winery in 2006, now supplying the majority of Fairtrade wine sold in Sweden.
Place
The Famatina Valley runs along the eastern slopes of the Andes in La Rioja province. Chilecito, where La Riojana's main bodega sits, is a small city in the valley floor. Vineyard parcels climb from 900 to 1,310 metres above sea level depending on the brand and blend.
Altitude does two things here. It extends the growing season, letting grapes accumulate aromatic compounds over a longer hang time. It also drives a sharp diurnal temperature swing: daytime highs around 35°C drop to roughly 17°C overnight. That gap is what keeps acidity intact in varieties that would lose it in warmer settings. For Torrontés, with its naturally high aromatic charge, the cool nights preserve lift and floral definition without pushing the grape toward flat or alcoholic territory. The sandy, limestone-rich soils drain well and reflect heat, adding to the valley's capacity to ripen grapes fully while keeping the harvest window open.
Soil And Site
Famatina Valley soils are predominantly sandy with limestone beneath. The sandy texture drains efficiently, reducing disease pressure without intervention. The limestone component holds minerals and supports vine root development across the long growing season. Parcels in the Ecologica range sit between 1,020 and 1,310 metres; Raza parcels run from 900 to 1,100 metres. Both altitude bands produce grapes with enough acidity to carry the aromatic character Torrontés and Pinot Grigio require at bottling.
Story
La Riojana has farmed without chemical inputs since its founding. Sheep have grazed between the vine rows for more than eighty years; their droppings are composted and returned to the soil as organic fertiliser. No fungicides, no pesticides, no synthetic fertilisers. The decision was practical before it was philosophical: in a dry, high-altitude valley with low disease pressure, the sheep system worked and cost less than chemical alternatives.
Organic certification came in the 1990s and formalised what the cooperative had already been doing. Fairtrade certification arrived in 2006, making La Riojana Argentina's first certified winery. The certifications changed the cooperative's export route. By 2004, Swedish importer Giertz Vinimport had introduced the Ecologica brand to Scandinavian shelves. When the Fairtrade label arrived two years later, Giertz had a category-defining product for a market that was beginning to treat ethical certification as a purchasing signal. The two organisations went on to establish a shared European and UK back-office joint venture.
Today 44% of La Riojana's European sales are organic. The cooperative supplies the majority of all Fairtrade wine sold in Sweden. An 80-year farming practice, formalised in stages by certification bodies, became a commercial position in markets that most Argentine cooperatives never reached.
Vineyards And Cellar
Grapes are harvested by hand in the early morning, when temperatures are low enough to preserve aromatic volatiles before they dissipate in the valley heat. Morning harvest is a deliberate choice across the Ecologica and Raza ranges, where the target is floral lift and fresh acidity rather than extracted weight.
Fermentation takes place across eight bodegas. The primary facility in Chilecito handles the majority of the cooperative's volume. For the Fair & Square Smart Red, Syrah spends three months in a combination of French and American oak before bottling. The oak contact adds vanilla and spice to the grape's natural blackberry and violet character without dominating the fruit. The white-wine ranges see no oak, relying on altitude-preserved acidity and aromatic variety expression as their primary winemaking currency.
Wines
The range is organised by brand rather than appellation tier. Each brand carries a distinct positioning, and the grape blends shift accordingly.
Ecologica Familias Torrontés Chardonnay blends 60% Torrontés with 40% Chardonnay from parcels at 1,020 to 1,310 metres. Dry and floral, with elderflower, pear, and citrus. The Chardonnay adds weight to Torrontés's aromatic lift, producing a white with more mid-palate presence than a single-variety Torrontés but the same freshness driven by altitude and morning harvest. Sandy, limestone-rich soils. Winemaker: Dr. Rodolfo Griguol.
Raza Torrontés Pinot Grigio Organic pairs Torrontés with Pinot Grigio from 900 to 1,100 metre parcels. Also harvested in the morning. The profile sits in the aromatic and fresh register, with moderate acidity and a lighter body than the Ecologica blend.
Fair & Square Smart White is floral and youthful, with elderflower, pear, honeydew melon, rose, and mandarin. Light to medium body, moderate acidity. The Fairtrade label is most prominent here.
Fair & Square Smart Red uses Syrah, aged three months in French and American oak. Blackberry, violet, vanilla, blueberry, liquorice, and herb on the nose and palate. Moderate body, balanced acidity. The oak gives the wine enough grip for food without weighing down the fruit.
In The Glass
Torrontés from the Famatina Valley at altitude opens with a burst of white flower: jasmine and elderflower first, then pear and citrus underneath. The nose is more aromatic than most white wine drinkers expect from Argentina, closer to a dry Alsace Muscat than to a Sauvignon Blanc. In the mouth the wine is dry, with a light-to-medium body and a bright acidity that runs through to a clean finish. The floral character does not carry residual sweetness; it comes from the grape's natural aromatic oils, held in place by cool nights and early harvesting.
The Ecologica Torrontés Chardonnay adds texture to that profile. The Chardonnay fraction fills the mid-palate, giving the wine a slightly fuller feel without dulling the lift. Pear and citrus extend into the finish with a clean cut from the limestone-influenced acidity.
The Fair & Square Smart Red moves into different territory entirely. Syrah shows its dark-fruit character: blackberry, blueberry, violet. The three months in French and American oak contribute vanilla and a slight spice note that broadens the mid-palate. The finish carries light herb alongside the fruit. Moderate tannin, enough to mark the wine as a red wine rather than a soft sipper, but not enough to require age before drinking.
A Bottle To Understand It
Ecologica Familias Torrontés Chardonnay is the right first bottle. It is dry, floral, and made from grapes grown at between 1,020 and 1,310 metres in the Famatina Valley, harvested by hand in the morning, on sandy, limestone-rich soils. The 60% Torrontés brings white flower and pear; the 40% Chardonnay adds enough mid-palate to give the wine presence without obscuring the altitude-driven freshness. Winemaker Dr. Rodolfo Griguol. Organic certified. It is a white wine that explains the Famatina Valley in a single glass: aromatic, dry, fresh, and unlike anything from Mendoza.
Anecdote
In 2004, Giertz Vinimport introduced a white wine from La Riojana to Swedish shelves under the Ecologica label. There was no Fairtrade certification yet; the cooperative had not yet applied. The wine sold on its organic credentials and its altitude-grown aromatic character. Two years later, in 2006, La Riojana became Argentina's first Fairtrade-certified winery. Giertz now had something unusual: an organic Argentine white wine with a Fairtrade label at a moment when Swedish retailers were beginning to treat certification as a category, not a footnote. La Riojana wines went on to account for the majority of all Fairtrade wines sold in Sweden. The importer and the cooperative built a shared European and UK back-office joint venture around that position. The label Giertz had taken a chance on two years before the certification existed became the foundation of the whole arrangement.
Final Word
La Riojana is a cooperative of 500 families farming a high-altitude Argentine valley that most wine buyers have never heard of, producing a grape that most Argentine wine drinkers never order. The farming is chemically clean by eighty years of habit, the certifications are real, and the wines, particularly the Torrontés-led whites, give a precise account of what the Famatina Valley produces at altitude.
Sources
- https://www.lariojanawines.com/
- https://www.lariojanawines.com/winemaking
- https://www.lariojanawines.com/fairtrade-and-la-riojana
- https://www.lariojanawines.com/our-organic-story
- https://www.oxfamfairtrade.be/en/partners/la-riojana/
- https://www.fairtrade.net/en/for-business/benefits-of-being-certified/business-success-stories/la-riojana-giertz-vinimport-success-story.html
- https://www.lariojanawines.com/fair-square
- https://www.lariojanawines.com/ecologica
- https://www.giertz.se/sortiment/ecologica-torrontes-chardonnay-2/
- https://www.giertz.se/sortiment/raza-torrontes-pinot-grigio-organic/
- https://www.systembolaget.se/produkt/sortiment/651701/
- https://www.systembolaget.se/produkt/sortiment/653901/