Varrains domaine working Cabernet Franc and Chenin Blanc across tuffeau limestone with organic and biodynamic farming.
The producer
Domaine des Roches Neuves was founded in 1850 and acquired by Thierry and Marie Germain in 1991. Based in Varrains, 5 km south of Saumur, it farms 28 hectares across 61 parcels, with Cabernet Franc for Saumur-Champigny reds and Chenin Blanc for Saumur whites. Organic conversion came in the late 1990s, followed by biodynamic methods in the early 2000s. Thierry Germain's early style was heavily influenced by oak before shifting toward vineyard focused winemaking.
Known for
Cabernet Franc and Chenin Blanc
Notable facts
Founded in 1850 by the Duveau family.
Thierry and Marie Germain acquired the domaine in 1991.
The vineyards cover 28 hectares across 61 parcels.
Organic winegrowing began in the late 1990s, followed by biodynamic methods in the early 2000s.
L'Échelier is Chenin Blanc fermented in 600 liter oval barrels and aged on fine lees for 9 months.
The story
From Oak To Vineyard
In 1991, Thierry and Marie Germain acquired Domaine des Roches Neuves after Thierry had come from Bordeaux to settle in the Loire Valley. Thierry's early wines were dark, tannic and heavily influenced by oak. He then cut back on winemaking and focused more on the vineyard. The domaine converted completely to organic winegrowing in the late 1990s, followed by biodynamic methods in the early 2000s. The change brought plant based preparations, limited sulfur and respect for the lunar calendar into the farming. The wines moved from a modern Bordeaux style toward vineyard focused winemaking.
From the atlas
Domaine des Roches Neuves
A Varrains domaine working Cabernet Franc and Chenin Blanc through organic and biodynamic farming, with separate vinification across its parcels.
At A Glance
Field
Detail
Region
Loire Valley
Village
Varrains, 5 km south of Saumur
Appellations
Saumur-Champigny reds and Saumur whites
Main grapes
Cabernet Franc and Chenin Blanc
Vineyard
28 hectares across 61 parcels
Signature wine
L'Échelier, a Saumur white
The Producer
Dark, tannic wines heavily influenced by oak marked Thierry Germain's early work after he came from Bordeaux to settle in Varrains. He later cut back on winemaking and focused more on the vineyard, moving the domaine toward organic and then biodynamic farming.
Domaine des Roches Neuves was founded in 1850 by the Duveau family and acquired by Thierry and Marie Germain in 1991. The conversion to organic winegrowing took place in the late 1990s, followed by biodynamic methods in the early 2000s. Those methods use plant based preparations, limited sulfur and respect for the lunar calendar.
Roches Neuves averages just shy of 30 hectolitres per hectare, while most properties average upwards of 60. Harvesting is completely by hand, and the parcels are vinified separately.
Place
Porous tuffeau limestone stores humidity and redistributes it during intense drought. The domaine is in Varrains, 5 km south of Saumur, in the Loire Valley. Its red wines carry the Saumur-Champigny appellation and its white wines carry Saumur. Cabernet Franc and Chenin Blanc divide the range between those two colors.
Wines
The range follows the two appellations. L'Échelier is a Saumur white made from Chenin Blanc. Alcoholic fermentation takes place in 600 liter oval barrels with 52 mm thick walls over approximately three months, followed by 9 months on fine lees in underground cellars kept at low temperature.
Clos de L'Échelier is a Saumur-Champigny red made from Cabernet Franc. Fermentation takes place in a truncated conical Stoeckinger vat at 16°C to 24°C, with the grapes completely destemmed and vatting lasting 10 to 18 days.
In The Glass
L'Échelier is almost crystalline straw yellow, with a limpid, bright and luminous appearance. Its fruitiness is preserved through ageing on fine lees in an underground cellar kept at low temperature. Fine lees can add a broader texture to white wine as it rests.
Clos de L'Échelier is a lively red with violet highlights. The nose offers fruity notes of cherry and strawberry. The two wines present different colors, grapes and cellar treatments within the domaine's range.
A Bottle To Understand It
Choose L'Échelier. It is the Saumur white from Chenin Blanc, with fermentation in oval barrels and ageing on fine lees in underground cellars. Fine lees can soften the texture of white wine. Clos de L'Échelier is the red Cabernet Franc counterpart, made with complete destemming, so L'Échelier puts the white appellation, grape and cellar method first.
Final Word
Domaine des Roches Neuves is a Varrains domaine with tuffeau limestone, separate parcel vinification, and two Loire grapes in different appellations.